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The critical points occur when $\dfrac{dC}{dx} = 0$: \[ \begin{align*} \dfrac{dC}{dx} = 0 &= -\dfrac{600}{x^2} + 2 \\[8px] -2 &= -\dfrac{600}{x^2} \\[8px] x^2 &= \dfrac{600}{2} \\[8px] &= 300 \\[8px] x &= \sqrt{300} \end{align*} \] Note that we choose the positive square root since the width x cannot be negative. Also note that we could have a critical point where $\dfrac{dC}{dx} = -\dfrac{600}{x^2} + 2$ is undefined, which occurs when $x=0$. That answer makes no physical sense, though, since then Sam’s garden would have zero area. We thus continue our analysis with the single critical point $$x = \sqrt{300}$$ No garden, no problem: What can you grow in your apartment? Comments Will it take much looking after? Once planted, this garden will look after itself — aside from the odd pruning of climbers, such as clematis, and the addition of some bright summer blooms, like lilies or poppies. Hi Hazel, thank you for that. Have never had nest box as neither me or partner great at DIY. My garden is very wildlife friendly as in a lot of it is untouched! I have 2 large hedges, laurel in front & I don’t know what the other one is usual hedging plant(box?), but it is a bit of a monster now, probably 15ft, neighbour has asked if he could cut it to 8ft which is fine as long as he does it soon before nesting starts. 🙂 Solution: Don’t fight the rocks; design a rock garden. Rocks add visual appeal and function to anchor the soil. Plant rock crevices with drought-tolerant plants such as ice plant and sedum as a form of xeriscaping. Thanks for the follow up. Sounds like the plants are on the right track. Happy gardening! Check for grubs curled in soil at base of plants. Keep garden clean of debris and plant residue. Keep garden weed-free. Use cardboard collars around seedlings. Does anyone have experience using chemical-free grass clippings as mulch in the garden? Good idea or not so much? Problem No. 4 – Invasive Varieties Are Taking Over Symptoms: A plant is spreading outwards over garden bed. The plant is choking out other plants in the bed. You notice seedlings that you didn’t plant popping up in areas. Through its county agents, the Cooperative Extension Service gives individuals access to the resources at land-grant universities across the nation. These universities are centers for research in many subjects, including entomology (the study of insects) and agriculture. Each county within the United States has an Extension office, which is staffed with agents who work closely with university-based Extension specialists to deliver answers to your questions about gardening, agriculture, and pest control. You can find the phone number for your local county extension office in the local government section (often marked with blue pages) of your telephone directory or by clicking on the map below. My biggest problem with my garden is trees! We have a shelterbelt around our whole acreage that includes several rows of trees which are beautiful but we get no sun! Just joined but looking for some advice please on the garden which has dying grass – yellow, dead and some green. I keep reading everyone’s posts because I thought I was the only one with strange results. I also am interested in hearing about other woodchippers. I have the following comments to add: 1. I’ve been a woodchipper (Paul Gautschi, Back to Eden) for three years now and every year the soil gets better as the plants reveal…but one has to be patient with the process, like investing over the years before payoff. Once payoff happens (the right balance of soil chemistry with microorganisms), less work and more productivity is expected. So fertilize your plants to compensate before that magic year which I will be doing in my fourth year. 2. I didn’t plant my tomatoes deeply enough below the 4″ woodchip layer — my mistake — and my results were very disappointing with curly leaves, too much die off. I put new plants in at the beginning of August at a deep level, and they’re doing well, except yellowing at bottom…we haven’t had much rain here. 3. my potatoes are doing excellent — buried deep below the chips. 4. Chips are challenging with root crops while the soil is still building, so I’m doing a garden bed without chips next year and for several years more. 5. there is definitely a larger picture in which the pollution of our skies and water is a factor, which makes me want to stick with chips for greater protection, though our productivity may still be affected. The pollution dries out the soil and hurts plant growth. 6, yes I think one has to do their best to avoid chips which were herbicide-treated before cut down. 7. I would like to get chickens to help with the gardening tilling and fertilizing. So … you’ve been reading my garden columns and I’ve convinced you that if a former news anchor can grow a garden on a balcony, how hard can it be? There are many different problems that you can be faced with in your garden so feel free to get in touch with us to discuss how we can help you with yours.  As much as it pains me to say this, I would NOT use any more hay on your garden until you can absolutely, 100% verify the hay or field it came from has not been sprayed with any sort of herbicide. The type of drainage used depends largely on the extent of the problem. If the water logging is not severe and there is only excess surface water, it may be possible to overcome the problem by shaping the garden surfaces so that the water flows off into ditches. These ditches should be 0.9-1.2m (3 to 4 ft.) deep, with sloping sides. Jill, you CAN absolutely use cattle manure and straw for compost. My parents did it every year between the rows of their garden on their farm where potatoes strawberries and tomatoes thrived in rural Pennsylvania. I’m assuming you buy your hay, I haven’t read much further yet, but if you buy hay for your animals just ask for Timothy hay or Kentucky Blue Grass from the local farmers. Also there is such a thing as a laboratory to send a soil sample to check with your county or state extension office as well as local universities, Penn State does soil samples but that might be awhile for you to ship soil. Both my parents and my husband sent theirs off. The key is always the acidity balance. Also Jill I am telling you MUSHROOM SOIL in a raised bed to start. My husband used this soil in a raised bed when he lived in the city and his plants were GORGEOUS. Then next year till that soil into your soil. I hope this helps!!! I’ve alluded several times in my newsletter, and here on the blog, that I’ve had a rather bizarre, and quite unproductive gardening year. To supply nitrogen – I have fond memories of my Dad planting his blue lupin cover crop in our vegetable garden. I was paid ten cents an hour to chop up and turn in this dense, metre-high mass. A few weeks later the soil was churning with happy earthworms and our nitrogen-rich soil was ready to plant. Legumes, like lupins, clovers and lucerne, fix nitrogen from the atmosphere and deliver this desirable ammonium form of nitrogen into the root zone. The ideal ratio between ammonium and nitrate nitrogen is 3:1 (in favour of ammonium nitrogen) and this ratio is a big player in pest resistance. You may struggle to achieve this resilience ratio in your garden without some legumes present in the planting mix. Just a few blocks away from the garden, Eileen Burns mixes drinks at Californos in Westport. 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